The worm gear assembly doesn't work on our Hobart band saw. We can't adjust the distance of the gauge plate. We are having trouble fixing it. We removed the dial that you turn, and the shaft inside it is frozen. We can't remove it. It's rusted in place and wont budge. If we could loosen it, remove it, lubricate it, and put it back, I think it will work again. Does anyone here know what we're doing wrong? Is there anything else that should be removed before that shaft comes out?
Is that an oil hole circled on the right? How do you remove the pin circled on the left? We removed both allen bolts and it wont come out. Do you pound it out with hammer and screwdriver?
The other side of the pin that we may need to remove (if we want to remove the worm assembly and soak it in mineral oil or WD40 to lossen it.
I don't know the model number. Don't see it. Here's a picture of the saw
-- Edited by Burgermeister on Wednesday 17th of August 2016 10:22:16 PM
-- Edited by Burgermeister on Wednesday 17th of August 2016 10:23:16 PM
-- Edited by Burgermeister on Friday 23rd of September 2016 06:49:12 PM
That's a tricky one The housing is a soft white metal casting and sometimes cracks if too much force is used. First check if you are able to squeeze the handle and slide the gauge back and forth. if you can then use WD40 to oil both ends of the worm bracket and wait 15-20 minutes. If not it indicates heavy seizing, or damage. First you must remove the pin. Start by removing both allen screws, remove washers, replace screws. This will prevent mushrooming ends of the pin, if that happens, the pin will not come out. Slide gauge assembly all the way to the left, near blade. Tap screw head with a heavy ( 2- 3 lb. ) hammer until it moves about 1/4" Hitting lightly with a heavy hammer is more effective than hitting harder with a lighter hammer, if you have one. At that point the pin will be sticking out the other end. Slide gauge to other side.Spray WD40, wait a few mins, and tap in opposite direction Repeat several times until pin moves easily. At this point you will need something long enough to drive pin all the way out. A long shaft 5/16" flat head pin punch is best. Once the pin is removed you can work on the gear assembly. It would be best to replace it as long as you have it out. Reassemble.
Another,easier. option would be to replace the entire gauge plate assembly. Loosen set screw underneath r/s gear rod bracket near neck of saw. Remove 2 bolts on bracket. Slide off old assembly. Replace. Reassemble.
Please contact me if you need any more info or parts. Bob
That's a tricky one The housing is a soft white metal casting and sometimes cracks if too much force is used. First check if you are able to squeeze the handle and slide the gauge back and forth. if you can then use WD40 to oil both ends of the worm bracket and wait 15-20 minutes. If not it indicates heavy seizing, or damage. First you must remove the pin. Start by removing both allen screws, remove washers, replace screws. This will prevent mushrooming ends of the pin, if that happens, the pin will not come out. Slide gauge assembly all the way to the left, near blade. Tap screw head with a heavy ( 2- 3 lb. ) hammer until it moves about 1/4" Hitting lightly with a heavy hammer is more effective than hitting harder with a lighter hammer, if you have one. At that point the pin will be sticking out the other end. Slide gauge to other side.Spray WD40, wait a few mins, and tap in opposite direction Repeat several times until pin moves easily. At this point you will need something long enough to drive pin all the way out. A long shaft 5/16" flat head pin punch is best. Once the pin is removed you can work on the gear assembly. It would be best to replace it as long as you have it out. Reassemble. Another,easier. option would be to replace the entire gauge plate assembly. Loosen set screw underneath r/s gear rod bracket near neck of saw. Remove 2 bolts on bracket. Slide off old assembly. Replace. Reassemble. Please contact me if you need any more info or parts. Bob
Thank you Bob. We were having trouble figuring out how to remove that pin. We wont remove the worm assembly unless/until a replacement one is received. Thanks also for the wise advice you gave me on the phone today.
Thank you Bob, for your valuable information and advice on these topics. I am looking forward to hearing how this turns out for Burgermeister and CUTLERYBROS.
Hi Guys Yeah, removing that pin can be a real PIA, but if you can get it out, the worm bracket assembly will just drop out. You might want to have a new worm bracket assembly and mounting pin on hand before you start. If you are not comfortable with this level of repair, it is easier to replace the entire meat gauge assembly as described above. 2 bolts, 1 set screw
If you are a union shop, report any saw safety issues to your shop steward and request a service call from your local saw repair company.
Always glad to help out with any questions.
I just got done rebuilding a Hobart 5216 and had the EXACT problem you have. I completely removed the assembly and tried EVERYTHING to get that darn pin out.. I even fabricated a special screw press to punch the pin through much like a bearing puller.. We tried heat, cold, soaking in solutions, everything.. I even hit it with ultrasonics and no luck.
I ended up just drilling the entire pin out. If you start with a small drill, make sure its centered and clamped in place, you can drill the entire pin out. You don't even need to go full size with the drill as once you get 80% of the middle of the pin drilled out, the stress is relieved and it will slide out with a bit of hammer tapping. Inside are bronze bushings so if you miss a bit, its not a big deal.
You can then order a new pin and new bushings. There are two bushings inside. The parts are only a few bucks.. you'll probably spend more on UPS shipping than the parts cost. I got my parts from NBSParts dot com. apparently, if you sign up with them as a business, all their list prices are cut almost in half.
If I can help in any way, I'll be happy.. Just send me a pm or whatever.
I just got done rebuilding a Hobart 5216 and had the EXACT problem you have. I completely removed the assembly and tried EVERYTHING to get that darn pin out.. I even fabricated a special screw press to punch the pin through much like a bearing puller.. We tried heat, cold, soaking in solutions, everything.. I even hit it with ultrasonics and no luck.
I ended up just drilling the entire pin out. If you start with a small drill, make sure its centered and clamped in place, you can drill the entire pin out. You don't even need to go full size with the drill as once you get 80% of the middle of the pin drilled out, the stress is relieved and it will slide out with a bit of hammer tapping. Inside are bronze bushings so if you miss a bit, its not a big deal. You can then order a new pin and new bushings. There are two bushings inside. The parts are only a few bucks.. you'll probably spend more on UPS shipping than the parts cost. I got my parts from NBSParts dot com. apparently, if you sign up with them as a business, all their list prices are cut almost in half.
If I can help in any way, I'll be happy.. Just send me a pm or whatever.
We have 3 saws and this one was the only one that worked. Things have changed. The other two have been repaired and we're not allowed to use this one anymore. It's unplugged and turned backwards. It's too dangerous. The gauge plate wont stay in position and someone could get hurt. I hear were getting a hand me down saw from a store that was recently remodeled. I don't see why, it the hand me down saw is good, the other store couldn't keep it and give the new saw to us.
